A muddy, hairy rug doesn't just look scruffy. Dirt and sweat clog the fabric, so rain soaks in rather than running off, and a wet rug can leave your horse cold and damp underneath. A proper wash and reproof keeps rugs waterproof, breathable and lasting for more seasons.
How often should you wash a horse rug?
- End of season: give every rug a full wash and reproof before it goes into storage, so it's ready to use as soon as the weather turns.
- During the season: brush off dried mud and spot clean as you go. A full wash mid-winter is only needed if the rug is very dirty, smelly or has stopped keeping the rain out.
- Before sharing: always wash a rug before it goes on a different horse, to help stop skin conditions spreading.
Does it need reproofing? Sprinkle a little water on the outer fabric. If it beads up and rolls off, the waterproofing is still working. If it darkens and soaks in, it's time to reproof.
What you'll need
- A stiff brush to remove dried mud and hair
- A rug-safe cleaner such as Nikwax Rug Wash or Re:Claim Equestrian Rug Wash.
- A reproofer, either a wash-in like Nikwax Rug Proof or a spray like Gold Label Universal Rug Proof Spray
- A Moorland Rider Horsewear Wash Bag to catch hair and protect your washing machine
- Gloves, and somewhere airy to dry the rug
Before you wash
- Check the care label. It tells you the maximum temperature and whether the rug can go in a machine or tumble dryer.
- Brush off dried mud and hair outside. The less dirt that goes into the wash, the better the result.
- Remove anything detachable, such as neck covers, liners, leg straps and fillet strings, and wash them separately.
- Do up every buckle, clip and Velcro strap so nothing snags the fabric or bangs around the drum.
- Look for rips and worn stitching. A wash can make small tears bigger, and reproofing won't seal a hole, so get repairs done first.
- Treat stubborn marks with a little neat rug wash and a soft brush.
How to wash a horse rug in a washing machine
- Clear any detergent build-up from the dispenser drawer by running an empty rinse, or wiping it out. Leftover detergent can strip the waterproofing.
- Put one rug in a wash bag and load it into the machine. It needs room to move, so don't squash a heavyweight rug into a small drum.
- Add the rug wash. For Nikwax Rug Wash, use 150ml per rug.
- Run a cycle at the temperature on the care label, usually 30°C, with a thorough rinse.
- If you're reproofing, the rug can go straight into the next step while it's still wet.
Big rugs: heavyweight and combo rugs are often too bulky for a home machine. Use a large-drum laundrette that accepts horse rugs, or a specialist rug wash service, rather than risking your own machine.
How to wash a horse rug by hand
- Lay the rug flat on a clean area and wet it thoroughly with a hose.
- Mix the rug wash with warm water. For Nikwax Rug Wash, use 1 part rug wash to 2 parts hot water.
- Wearing gloves, scrub the mix into the fabric with a brush, paying extra attention to the chest, shoulders and any muddy patches.
- Turn the rug over and do the lining.
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water until no suds are left.
How to reproof a horse rug
Always reproof a clean rug. Proofer can't bond to fabric that's covered in dirt and sweat. There are two ways to do it:
|
Method |
Best for |
How it works |
|---|---|---|
|
Wash-in |
The end-of-season wash, or rugs that have stopped keeping water out |
Goes in the washing machine after cleaning and treats the whole rug evenly |
|
Spray-on |
Quick top-ups, extra-large rugs, or just the outer shell |
Sprayed onto the outside of a clean rug, focusing on the back, quarters and shoulders |
Wash-in reproofing with Nikwax Rug Proof:
- Wash the rug first. There's no need to dry it.
- Clear the dispenser drawer of any detergent.
- Put the clean rug in the machine with 500ml of Rug Proof.
- Run a 30°C cotton cycle, one rug per load.
- Air dry, or tumble dry on low only if the care label allows.
No machine big enough? Nikwax Rug Proof can also be used by hand. Soak the clean rug in a large tub with the proofer and warm water for two hours, then rinse in cold water until it runs clear. Prefer to skip the soak? A spray such as Gold Label Universal Rug Proof Spray covers the outer shell without stiffening the fabric.
Drying your rug
- Hang the rug over a rail or fence somewhere airy and out of strong sun. A Stubbs Extendable Hook-On Rug Rail keeps it off the floor and lets air reach both sides.
- Let it dry completely, lining included, before putting it on your horse or into storage. A damp rug in a bag will go mouldy.
- Never dry a rug on a radiator or with high heat. High heat can damage the waterproof coating and reflective trims.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using household detergent or fabric conditioner. They leave a residue that stops the fabric repelling water.
- Washing too hot. Stick to the care label, usually 30°C.
- Skipping the rinse. Soap left in the fabric stops proofer from bonding.
- Reproofing a dirty rug. Always clean it first.
- Overloading the machine. One rug per load, with room to move.
Storing rugs over summer
Once your rugs are clean, reproofed and completely dry, fold them and pack them away somewhere dry and away from mice. A zipped Shires Rug Storage Bag keeps dust and damp out. Label each bag with the rug's weight and size so you can grab the right one when the first cold snap arrives.
Find everything you need to keep your rugs in top condition in our Rug Care collection. If a rug is past saving, our guides on how to measure your horse for a rug and which rug weight your horse needs will help you choose a new one.
